Morphological development of coasts at very oblique wave incidence

Dorthe Pia Petersen, Rolf Deigaard, Jørgen Fredsøe, Nils Kjetil Drønen, J. McKee Smith (Editor)

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingArticle in proceedingsResearchpeer-review


This study focuses on one distinct feature to be found on coasts exposed to a very oblique wave incidence, namely an accumulating spit. That is a spit where no retreat of the shoreline is going on along the spit. This requires a monotonically decreasing sediment transport capacity from the updrift stretch of coast, along the spit as the coast curves away from the approaching waves towards the tip of the spit. A one-line model for the coastline development predicts that accumulating spits can exist on coasts exposed to waves approaching at angles larger than 45 degree only. It is suggested that such a spit grows without changing its shape i.e. an equilibrium form emerge if the coast is exposed to a constant wave climate. During experiments conducted in a wave tank where a uniform stretch of coast was exposed to waves approaching at a very oblique angle an accumulating spit was formed at the down-drift end of the coast. The spits approached equilibrium forms when constant wave climates were applied. The sediment transport around the spit has been investigated by two-dimensional models. The characteristic length scale for the equilibrium form depends linearly on the width of the surf zone for constant wave incidence at the updrift stretch of coast. The factor of proportionality is in reasonable agreement with the experimentally found.
Original languageEnglish
Title of host publicationProceedings of 28th Int. Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE.
Place of PublicationNew Jersey, London, Singapore, Hong Kong
PublisherWorld Scientific
Publication date2003
Publication statusPublished - 2003
Event28th International Conference for Coastal Engineering - Cardiff, United Kingdom
Duration: 7 Jul 200212 Jul 2002
Conference number: 28


Conference28th International Conference for Coastal Engineering
Country/TerritoryUnited Kingdom


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