Improving oxidative stability of skin care emulsions with antioxidant extracts from brown alga Fucus vesiculosus

Ditte Baun Hermund, Shuk Yee Heung, Birgitte Raagaard Thomsen, Casimir C. Akoh, Charlotte Jacobsen*

*Corresponding author for this work

Research output: Contribution to journalJournal articleResearchpeer-review

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Abstract

Skin‐care products are known delivery systems of functional lipids that can enhance the natural defense of skin. Unsaturated lipids, e.g., linoleic acids, are more susceptible to lipid oxidation than saturated lipids. Therefore, lipid oxidation must be prevented to preserve the functionality of the unsaturated lipids in skin‐care products. The antioxidant properties of two Fucus vesiculosus extracts (water extract [WE] and 80% [v/v] ethanol extract [EE]) were evaluated. Both extracts had high in vitro antioxidant properties and a high phenolic content. The antioxidant efficacy of the extracts was evaluated by addition of 0.05% and 0.1% (w/w) freeze‐dried extracts to facial cream formulations. The cream was stored up to 42 days (dark, 20 °C) and the oxidative stability was determined by following tocopherol consumption and development in peroxides and secondary oxidation products. The results showed that EE was able to reduce the peroxide oxidation rate from 84.8% (control without extract) to 41.3%. Furthermore, a higher efficacy was observed for EE over WE. This was most likely related to higher phenolic content, high radical‐scavenging activity, and moderate metal‐chelating ability. However, WE indicated regeneration of tocopherols by amphiphilic polyphenolic phlorotannins, with interfacial properties. The results show that F. vesiculosus extracts rich in antioxidative phlorotannins can play an important role in reducing lipid oxidation and maintaining the quality of cream.
Original languageEnglish
JournalJournal of the american oil chemists society
Volume95
Issue number12
Pages (from-to)1509-1520
Number of pages12
ISSN0003-021X
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 2018

Keywords

  • Emulsion
  • Lipid oxidation
  • Quality
  • Antioxidant
  • Seaweed
  • Phlorotannin

Cite this

@article{f18e1e40627a45afb86e29ce6627c51b,
title = "Improving oxidative stability of skin care emulsions with antioxidant extracts from brown alga Fucus vesiculosus",
abstract = "Skin‐care products are known delivery systems of functional lipids that can enhance the natural defense of skin. Unsaturated lipids, e.g., linoleic acids, are more susceptible to lipid oxidation than saturated lipids. Therefore, lipid oxidation must be prevented to preserve the functionality of the unsaturated lipids in skin‐care products. The antioxidant properties of two Fucus vesiculosus extracts (water extract [WE] and 80{\%} [v/v] ethanol extract [EE]) were evaluated. Both extracts had high in vitro antioxidant properties and a high phenolic content. The antioxidant efficacy of the extracts was evaluated by addition of 0.05{\%} and 0.1{\%} (w/w) freeze‐dried extracts to facial cream formulations. The cream was stored up to 42 days (dark, 20 °C) and the oxidative stability was determined by following tocopherol consumption and development in peroxides and secondary oxidation products. The results showed that EE was able to reduce the peroxide oxidation rate from 84.8{\%} (control without extract) to 41.3{\%}. Furthermore, a higher efficacy was observed for EE over WE. This was most likely related to higher phenolic content, high radical‐scavenging activity, and moderate metal‐chelating ability. However, WE indicated regeneration of tocopherols by amphiphilic polyphenolic phlorotannins, with interfacial properties. The results show that F. vesiculosus extracts rich in antioxidative phlorotannins can play an important role in reducing lipid oxidation and maintaining the quality of cream.",
keywords = "Emulsion, Lipid oxidation, Quality, Antioxidant, Seaweed, Phlorotannin",
author = "Hermund, {Ditte Baun} and {Yee Heung}, Shuk and Thomsen, {Birgitte Raagaard} and Akoh, {Casimir C.} and Charlotte Jacobsen",
year = "2018",
doi = "10.1002/aocs.12156",
language = "English",
volume = "95",
pages = "1509--1520",
journal = "J A O C S",
issn = "0003-021X",
publisher = "Springer",
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Improving oxidative stability of skin care emulsions with antioxidant extracts from brown alga Fucus vesiculosus. / Hermund, Ditte Baun; Yee Heung, Shuk; Thomsen, Birgitte Raagaard; Akoh, Casimir C.; Jacobsen, Charlotte.

In: Journal of the american oil chemists society, Vol. 95, No. 12, 2018, p. 1509-1520.

Research output: Contribution to journalJournal articleResearchpeer-review

TY - JOUR

T1 - Improving oxidative stability of skin care emulsions with antioxidant extracts from brown alga Fucus vesiculosus

AU - Hermund, Ditte Baun

AU - Yee Heung, Shuk

AU - Thomsen, Birgitte Raagaard

AU - Akoh, Casimir C.

AU - Jacobsen, Charlotte

PY - 2018

Y1 - 2018

N2 - Skin‐care products are known delivery systems of functional lipids that can enhance the natural defense of skin. Unsaturated lipids, e.g., linoleic acids, are more susceptible to lipid oxidation than saturated lipids. Therefore, lipid oxidation must be prevented to preserve the functionality of the unsaturated lipids in skin‐care products. The antioxidant properties of two Fucus vesiculosus extracts (water extract [WE] and 80% [v/v] ethanol extract [EE]) were evaluated. Both extracts had high in vitro antioxidant properties and a high phenolic content. The antioxidant efficacy of the extracts was evaluated by addition of 0.05% and 0.1% (w/w) freeze‐dried extracts to facial cream formulations. The cream was stored up to 42 days (dark, 20 °C) and the oxidative stability was determined by following tocopherol consumption and development in peroxides and secondary oxidation products. The results showed that EE was able to reduce the peroxide oxidation rate from 84.8% (control without extract) to 41.3%. Furthermore, a higher efficacy was observed for EE over WE. This was most likely related to higher phenolic content, high radical‐scavenging activity, and moderate metal‐chelating ability. However, WE indicated regeneration of tocopherols by amphiphilic polyphenolic phlorotannins, with interfacial properties. The results show that F. vesiculosus extracts rich in antioxidative phlorotannins can play an important role in reducing lipid oxidation and maintaining the quality of cream.

AB - Skin‐care products are known delivery systems of functional lipids that can enhance the natural defense of skin. Unsaturated lipids, e.g., linoleic acids, are more susceptible to lipid oxidation than saturated lipids. Therefore, lipid oxidation must be prevented to preserve the functionality of the unsaturated lipids in skin‐care products. The antioxidant properties of two Fucus vesiculosus extracts (water extract [WE] and 80% [v/v] ethanol extract [EE]) were evaluated. Both extracts had high in vitro antioxidant properties and a high phenolic content. The antioxidant efficacy of the extracts was evaluated by addition of 0.05% and 0.1% (w/w) freeze‐dried extracts to facial cream formulations. The cream was stored up to 42 days (dark, 20 °C) and the oxidative stability was determined by following tocopherol consumption and development in peroxides and secondary oxidation products. The results showed that EE was able to reduce the peroxide oxidation rate from 84.8% (control without extract) to 41.3%. Furthermore, a higher efficacy was observed for EE over WE. This was most likely related to higher phenolic content, high radical‐scavenging activity, and moderate metal‐chelating ability. However, WE indicated regeneration of tocopherols by amphiphilic polyphenolic phlorotannins, with interfacial properties. The results show that F. vesiculosus extracts rich in antioxidative phlorotannins can play an important role in reducing lipid oxidation and maintaining the quality of cream.

KW - Emulsion

KW - Lipid oxidation

KW - Quality

KW - Antioxidant

KW - Seaweed

KW - Phlorotannin

U2 - 10.1002/aocs.12156

DO - 10.1002/aocs.12156

M3 - Journal article

VL - 95

SP - 1509

EP - 1520

JO - J A O C S

JF - J A O C S

SN - 0003-021X

IS - 12

ER -