A note on the horizontal momentum exchange in combined waves and current

Rolf Deigaard; Akio Okayasu; Jørgen Hansgaard Frederiksen

doi:10.1016/S0378-3839(98)00029-5

A note on the horizontal momentum exchange in combined waves and current

Rolf Deigaard, Akio Okayasu, Jørgen Hansgaard Frederiksen

Research output: Contribution to journal › Journal article › Research › peer-review

Abstract

The horizontal exchange of momentum due to the organized motion in combined waves and current has been analyzed. The combination of the vertical orbital wave motion and the mean current gives a periodic variation in the horizontal velocity in addition to the wave orbital motion. This periodic variation, combined with the wave orbital motion, gives a significant contribution to the momentum exchange. Two examples are considered, the interaction of a pure wave motion and a current normal to the direction of wave propagation, and a wave driven longshore current with an undertow velocity profile. It is demonstrated that the new contribution changes the resulting momentum exchange considerably. (C) 1998 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Original language	English
Journal	Coastal Engineering
Volume	34
Issue number	3-4
Pages (from-to)	259-276
ISSN	0378-3839
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(98)00029-5
Publication status	Published - 1998

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title = "A note on the horizontal momentum exchange in combined waves and current",

abstract = "The horizontal exchange of momentum due to the organized motion in combined waves and current has been analyzed. The combination of the vertical orbital wave motion and the mean current gives a periodic variation in the horizontal velocity in addition to the wave orbital motion. This periodic variation, combined with the wave orbital motion, gives a significant contribution to the momentum exchange. Two examples are considered, the interaction of a pure wave motion and a current normal to the direction of wave propagation, and a wave driven longshore current with an undertow velocity profile. It is demonstrated that the new contribution changes the resulting momentum exchange considerably. (C) 1998 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved. ",

author = "Rolf Deigaard and Akio Okayasu and Frederiksen, {J{\o}rgen Hansgaard}",

year = "1998",

doi = "10.1016/S0378-3839(98)00029-5",

language = "English",

volume = "34",

pages = "259--276",

journal = "Coastal Engineering",

issn = "0378-3839",

publisher = "Elsevier",

number = "3-4",

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TY - JOUR

T1 - A note on the horizontal momentum exchange in combined waves and current

AU - Deigaard, Rolf

AU - Okayasu, Akio

AU - Frederiksen, Jørgen Hansgaard

PY - 1998

Y1 - 1998

N2 - The horizontal exchange of momentum due to the organized motion in combined waves and current has been analyzed. The combination of the vertical orbital wave motion and the mean current gives a periodic variation in the horizontal velocity in addition to the wave orbital motion. This periodic variation, combined with the wave orbital motion, gives a significant contribution to the momentum exchange. Two examples are considered, the interaction of a pure wave motion and a current normal to the direction of wave propagation, and a wave driven longshore current with an undertow velocity profile. It is demonstrated that the new contribution changes the resulting momentum exchange considerably. (C) 1998 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

AB - The horizontal exchange of momentum due to the organized motion in combined waves and current has been analyzed. The combination of the vertical orbital wave motion and the mean current gives a periodic variation in the horizontal velocity in addition to the wave orbital motion. This periodic variation, combined with the wave orbital motion, gives a significant contribution to the momentum exchange. Two examples are considered, the interaction of a pure wave motion and a current normal to the direction of wave propagation, and a wave driven longshore current with an undertow velocity profile. It is demonstrated that the new contribution changes the resulting momentum exchange considerably. (C) 1998 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

U2 - 10.1016/S0378-3839(98)00029-5

DO - 10.1016/S0378-3839(98)00029-5

M3 - Journal article

VL - 34

SP - 259

EP - 276

JO - Coastal Engineering

JF - Coastal Engineering

SN - 0378-3839

IS - 3-4

ER -