Wave-driven currents, the associated sediment transport and the morphological development are investigated by numerical modelling and by laboratory experiments. The two-dimensional depth-integrated and the three-dimensional fields are investigated. The study concerns the conditions on non-uniform coastal topographies such as bars with rip channels, the stability of barred coasts, and the wave-driven circulation current (undertow) near the breaker line.
|Effective start/end date||01/01/1993 → …|
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