In this PhD project the interaction between the essential physical processes that determine the water wave transformation in finite water depth is studied. Important physical processes are e.g. depth-induced wave breaking, bottom friction, wave-current interaction, and non-linear wave-wave interactions. The last of these processes is the most complicated one and is the main object of this study. In deep water the dominant non-linear process is resonant four wave interactions, and this process is included in state-of-the-art wind wave models. In shallow water the dominant non-linear process is near-resonant three wave interactions, and until very recently it was not included in any wind wave models
|Effective start/end date||01/08/1995 → 30/09/1998|
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