Spectral modelling of water waves on finite water depth

In this PhD project the interaction between the essential physical processes that determine the water wave transformation in finite water depth is studied. Important physical processes are e.g. depth-induced wave breaking, bottom friction, wave-current interaction, and non-linear wave-wave interactions. The last of these processes is the most complicated one and is the main object of this study. In deep water the dominant non-linear process is resonant four wave interactions, and this process is included in state-of-the-art wind wave models. In shallow water the dominant non-linear process is near-resonant three wave interactions, and until very recently it was not included in any wind wave models